Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Should I change the whole starter on my truck or silinoide?

when I go to start my my 2002chevy truck the starter skips and makes a spinning noise. most of the time starts after second attempt sometimes more. do i need to change the whole starter or the part attahed to it?dont no if its called silinoid.
Should I change the whole starter on my truck or silinoide?
the part that is malfunctioning on your starter is called a %26quot;Bendix%26quot; or %26quot;drive%26quot; it is the drive gear on the inside of the nosecone, if the starter is still spinning the solenoid is still good but don't waste your time patching them up just purchase a new one
Should I change the whole starter on my truck or silinoide?
From real world exp. change the entire starter.Some Solenoids for newer GM vehicles(anything after 1994) can run as much or more than a quality reman starter. Go to www.advanceautoparts.com and price one
It is called solenoid. I think you would be money ahead if you changed both items. In fact starters my come with the solenoid already installed.



On suggestion. If you are going to change it yourself, you might take it off and see if the starter shaft is just dirty and gummed up and not allowing the solenoid to slide the gear into the fly wheel. Good luck. Pops
Whoa, DON'T change the solenoid. You're still getting power to the starter man. Until the solenoid goes out, you don't need one. Change the starter, you'll be good to go.
Sounds like the starter gear isn't engaging so it may be the solenoid...but some places that ell starters sell the solenoid already attached...best just get both.

I always get both just in case one damaged the other in some way.
..I would check out the ground wire on the starter. See if it's loose. I had a 96 %26amp; 98 with the same problem. If that,s not it I would change the solenoid. first off I would clean the starter and gear. check the fly wheel, make sure some teeth are not missing or worn down. I dont know if this will help or not but I have a 2000 ford F-150 that had the same problem. I changed everything,then found out it was the ignition switch in the steering column. Good luck
Your problem really sounds like a bad starter drive. I don't know what your skills are,but the starter will need to be removed and taken apart to replace the drive. You should also replace the brushes in the unit while it is apart. You might also look at the solenoid contacts, some of them can be turned around and work just fine, for years. It is also very important that the flywheel be examined for broken or worn teeth. If this is a problem, the transmission and bell housing will have to be removed to replace the flywheel.

If you don't have the skills for this type of work,remember that shop rates today range from $45 to $100 per hour. Although it seems pretty high priced, it may save you more in the long run. One other thing, you could get a rebuilt starter and install it, if the flywheel is ok. Note, some slight wear on the flywheel teeth would not mean changing it. Therefore, you could get by for around $50 to $100 if you change the starter your self. Also make sure there is a solenoid on the rebuilt starter. Most important, make sure the ground cable is disconnected from tha battery before starting the work. Make sure the truck is blocked up and chocks on both sides of the rear wheels.
It could be just the solenoid, however, generally when the solenoid is shot it just spins without engaging the flywheel. A rebuilt starter from a reputable parts outlet is warrantied and is a good investment. Trade in your old unit and you'll get a core discount. It's not gonna break the bank, and it's a good thing to have on those cold, dark, rainy nights. A good rebuilt starter should last many years, why screw around with a questionable starter. Keep in mind, there are few things that can leave you waiting for tow truck faster than a bad starter. Replace it.

Regards,

Sisao Tresed
I think you need to do some basic checks first. Clean the battery cable connections and check the connections to the starter/solenoid. Once the battey cable ends are scoured clean and the same thing occurs, have a charging systems diagnostic done on it (maybe $20) as this will check the battery, starter, and alternator.



Most solenoids will outlast several starters and if they fail for some reason you simply flip the thick copper washer around so the unused smooth flat side will make contact. There's not much to them.

If you swap the starter the new starter will come with a solenoid. For some reason it is often necessary to use a shim to space the starter when you bolt it back top the engine block and if you torque the bolts to %26quot;spec's%26quot; (specifications) this will cause the starter to not disengage and this is a fun session of trying to unscrew the battery cable to stop this action. If the motor fires you can strip the teeth off of the flex plate and this will result in having to drop the tranny to install a new flex plate. I use a set of gauges (some older folks call them %26quot;feeler gauges%26quot;) to measure the gap between the starter gear teeth and the flex plate teeth. It's been so long since I did this that I can't recall the correct gap to use. Something like .003%26quot;. This is also called %26quot;lash%26quot;. I've seen guys not use the gauges on rear ends and the teeth on the ring gear get ripped off when they put their foot on the gas.



I've seen them screw up 6this semingly simple job at the dealerships and they have to fix it at their cost. A job that pays maybe an hour turns into a whole days work when they have to drop the tranny to replace the flex plate.



Good Luck!