So, I changed out the starter with a new one....same thing. Before I changed that starter it was getting to where it wouldn't even click anymore. Just nothing.... Now that I put the new starter in...same thing...no noise, no click, nothing. And no starting..lol. What would be the next thing in line to check as to why it won't kick over. Battery is good, car has gas...lol.
thanks, Eric
1993 s-10 blazer STILL wont start. Last time asked the common response was that the starter was bad....?
try cleaning the battery terminals then check for loose wires
1993 s-10 blazer STILL wont start. Last time asked the common response was that the starter was bad....?
ignition switch .not the key.or the cyl. .
make sure you have the wires correct on the starter first.
the switch is in the steering colum.
The electrical connections should have been the first thing to check, then the starter solenoid. Before buying a new starter you should have removed the old one %26amp; had it tested.
Well since you're into replacing parts instead of testing...replace the neutral safety switch on the tranny%26gt;
The ignition switch (key) on the steering column is probably bad.
Trouble shooting trick;
Try using a screwdriver to arc from where the battery's + lead connects to the starter solenoid over to the smaller connection where the wire from your starter switch lands on the solenoid. Be careful not to hit anything else with the screw driver, because you could cause a direct ground short and start welding the screwdriver to things.
If your battery is good, the engine should crank over.
I shouldn't have to say this, but make sure the transmission is in park, (autos,) or neutral, with the brake set, (standards.)
You mention there's no click, no noise, nothing, which points us in the direction of an electrical problem, which can be the most frustrating of all.
Use a multimeter to %26quot;ohm out,%26quot; the continuity of your battery leads from the - lead to the block and the + lead to the the the actual stud on the starter where the lead connects. Not to the nut, not to the lead, but to the actual threaded stud. You might have to employ some alligator clips and lead extensions. Anything less than 1.6 ohms of resistance on either lead and you should be golden.
You can buy a multimeter at almost any parts store for about
$10. And the ohm function is the upside down horseshoe, use it on the lowest setting for ringing out wires.
Beyond that, you have a couple other common culprits;
Lockout switches, which prevent you from starting the engine without depressing the clutch or with the automatic transmisison in any gear other than park or neutral can fail. You can test this by using more alligator clips and wire to jumper around them for testing purposes.
If I recall correctly, which has also been duly noted, the column mounted ignition switches in systems like that tend to go bad. (I've had one fail while I was driving down the road. It took me months to find the problem.) When you turn the key to the start position, you're actually pushing a rod that runs down the top of your steering column that depresses a switch, completing the circuit to the starter solenoid. They are a pain in the @ss to replace, but it can be done.
Another possibility is a relay. Many vehicles use a relay to engage the starter. Power comes off the positive terminal of the battery, (actually it likely comes from the starter or another convenient distribution center,) to the disconnect switches. When the switches are closed, (trans in park, nuetral or clutch depressed,) it energizes a coil closing the switch inside the relay and allows power from the start switch to pass out to the solenoid, engaging the starter.
Relays can cost anywhere from $3 - $15. As long as you match the flow pattern, you're good. You can check the relay by jumpering across the receptacles for the start circuit and seeing if the engine cranks. (The relay will have a diagram on the top of it to tell you which receptacles to jumper across.)
Another possibility, is that you have a broken wire. Which means chasing wires for a day or so. Been there done that, and it's not much fun.
And last, but not least, check fuses. I had a 1999 C1500 with a misprinted fuseblock diagram. I had to pull every single fuse in the block to find the little 10 amp fuse that was blown.
Hope I helped and don't forget, Haynes and Chilton's manuals are your best friends. It's cheaper to buy one of them than it is to replace parts until the problem goes away.
Best of luck,
DGI
